Tuesday intrepids
As Simon and I were having coffee this morning, we were talking about the places at home we love and think are beautiful. We looked around.
“Everywhere is the most beautiful place in the world” Simon said.
Yes, man. Yes.
To that end, we took a chance with this morning’s swim. The sea is so flat and calm, we thought, why not? Simon scoped out a point of interest along the coast line of Skopelos on google maps - another deep grotto feature labeled as Drakontoschisma. Jason immediately renamed it Dragon's Toes and that pretty much sealed the deal. We decided on an A to B swim beginning at Dragon’s Toes and going to….where? We kind of had a cave goal in mind about a mile away, but really we figured we’d just cruise the wall and discover unknown sites. Because It’s all good. Because it’s Greece. Because everywhere is the most beautiful place in the world.
And yes, it was a stunning swim. Dragon’s Toes was incredible with a tiny little beach (Simon did his monk seal impression - always a fan fav), around the corner from there we found an amazing and huge cave, then we found a room in the rock wall with a secret underwater window to somewhere that remains a mystery. Sooooo tempting. Then we continued around the wall with a serious case of Corner Fever (One more corner, ok ONE more corner), then we ended in a bay with the original cave Simon had aimed for. It was small but spectacular, with rooms and passageways and a crack we just couldn’t help but squeeze through.
Two hours of intrepid exploring.
Jason had escorted us with the yacht the whole way, he and Jemima waiting with the patience of saints and probably wondering what in Zeus’ name we were up to going in and out of mystery cracks and crevices. We climbed back aboard, utterly wrung out, but satisfied with our thorough explore of this stretch of Skopelos.
Please know this: If you want to swim with me in Greece, you’ll do best to come curious and just wanting to know what’s in all of its many nooks and crannies. Because that is the only way I know how to do this thing here. That is my way of loving Greece and loving you.
A little video montage of our intrepid morning swim and the sites we’ve discovered. Please note, the accompanying music is an original beat composition by my son, Finn Weafer. XO
Jemima’s way of loving us was with a spectacular prawn, melon and avocado salad for lunch. Ladies and gentlemen, my heart (and belly) is full.
I spent our swimmers’ self appointed quiet hour in my cabin editing and working on this blog. The afternoon swim snuck up on me and before I knew it I was jumping into the slightly bouncy bay of Paralia Stafilos with the gang. We made for a rock outcrop and kicked the whole swim off with a tight squeeze between two giant monoliths. Oddly, the open water on the other side of the crevasse was calm and still, even though we’d only traveled about 20 feet through the islet. Delightful.
We’ve swum this bay a few times before and still were surprised with features we’d missed, or enjoyed but forgotten, which made it all seem new again to Simon, me, Kendra and Miriam. There was the lovely “room” open to the sky accessed by a teensy tinsy hole between two rocks. SImon recalled we’d called in Kendra’s Cottage. You slink over a boulder then submerge about 12 inches and crawl along the sand on your belly. The reward is a secret space probably not many have seen. Conveniently, it boasts a natural drift wood bench and is well appointed with smooth stones of many shades. You may direct sublet inquiries to me at SwimVacation.
We continued around more imposing monoliths - some capped with gnarled trees topped with the most impossible green tufts - and swam through boulders like we were tiny race cars on tight cobblestoned village streets. We collected rocks for Jemima who’s been using our finds to decorate our table and hold napkins in the breeze at meals. How old were you the last time you collected rocks? Ever see 6 grown adults climb aboard a fancy yacht with bathers full of them?
Toward the end of the bay we came to a cave that is so different from the others. The limestone drips in salt and fresh water rivulets that soak the cliff face, making the mouth of the cave smooth and yellow. There are pinecones hanging, powdered white from salt spray. Butterflies come to rest on these. The most spectacular thing about this cave is that as the water pulses in and out of the mouth of it, a bellowing gurgling drumbeat is created. With the bigger waves comes a spray of sea water. When the sun is just right, these create a rainbow. Simon discovered this when we were last here 3 years ago, and we dubbed it The Cave that Barfs Rainbows. It only spit one at us today and I wasn’t quick enough to catch it on camera, but I love knowing it’s here, cranking out rainbows even when I’m back at home on a cloudy day.
We finished the swim in different places - some of us played in the underwater grotto, some hit the warm shower, Celine had a float in her handy dandy water hammock. It was free and easy and just what we needed this afternoon.
Jemima filled our bellies with dolma (stuffed grape leaves) and chicken souvlaki on the grill (thanks Jason and Simon for the assist there!), sided buy a delicious salad of lentils and all sorts of other yummy things, and of course the ubiquitous tzatziki. I’ve eaten so much of this stuff I’m not sure from which night I’m still tasting delicious garlic. Dessert on the helm was a nice chia seed pudding, and once again, it matched the colors of the soft evening sky. Well played, Jemima.
A digestif called Tsiporo appeared, and some discussion and debate ensued about notes and similar spirits as the sky got dim.
Before dinner, Jason texted me a poem he wrote today, apparently inspired by our exploratory adventures. I’ll share it with you here:
Across the Aegean's endless gleam,
Eight souls embarked on a watery dream.
A sailing boat, with sails unfurled,
To find new wonders in the world.
Our captain, an Argonaut of old,
With stories brave and legends told.
He steered us to the caves so deep,
Where sunlit shadows softly sleep.
We dove beneath the waves so blue,
The sunlit reefs came into view.
A kaleidoscope of fin and scale,
A silent, vibrant, watery tale.
We swam with fish of silver bright,
Through ancient caverns, day and night.
We watched the sea grasses reach and grow,
A living landscape, soft and slow.
Back on the deck, the food was grand,
The finest feasts in all the land.
We ate our fill, content and slow,
As waters whispered to and fro.
The gentle sound, a steady beat,
The salty breeze, a welcome treat.
Eight swimmers blessed, forever bound,
By all the magic we had found.
Efcharisto, Jason.
Everyone is early to bed tonight after a day with nearly 4 hours of water time and sites that made our hearts beat quick. I hope I will be abed soon. First, our evening lap around the boat. Why not give this good and most beautiful Mediterranean Sea just a few more minutes of my time. Because everywhere is the most beautiful place in the world.
Kali Nikta,
Heather
