Right, so, remember the fireworks from last night? Turns out they were from a Greek wedding on shore in Limnonari Bay. The wedding was a real rager! The music was loud and bouncy and went on without a break until 0400. Boy, that clarinet can really wail! Welcome to Greece everyone!

So we improvised a bit of a sleep in this morning, and got off to a slow start. Lisa didn’t wake me with my coffee, but left it outside my hatch, angel, and I slept till 745. Oof. When I stumbled out of bed, she greeted me with a fresh cup. Somehow she and Richie slept through the night of the living Clarinet, most likely attributed to their history as charter boat crew on many a yacht during all night parties.

Our swimmers appreciated the slow start, and once everyone was awake and caffeinated, we moved the yacht to Amarandos Cove on Skopelos - one of our fav spots.

Here we don’t give our charges much info about the geological wonders to come, because we like a slow reveal of the incredible sights. And so we headed out into a bumpy sea, with waves and froth lining the rocky shoreline. Around the peninsula and along the wall, we hung a left into a little bay. The current pulled at us and didn’t want to let us go, but we persevered and moved into the calm. In the corner of the bay is Simon’s T. It’s a T shaped cut into the rocks with caves at either end. An easy half hour of fun and exploration. Katharine liked the feel of the surge that moves you in and out of the entrance to the T, so she zipped in and out again and again and enjoyed the wild ride doing freestyle and even butterfly! Allyson ventured deep into the cave we called Thunder Hole for the booming sound coming from within as the swell pulses against its walls.

After this excitement Simon and I played “But wait, there’s more!” and led our ladies back out into the bay and to the mouth of the deep gorge that has become one of my favorite places on Earth. Here, the sea goes flat and our ears get a rest from the howl of wind. It’s a true escape from anything and everything that might trouble a swimmer. The women instantly made for the little beach at the heel of the gorge, perfectly lit by a spotlight of dappled sun. We lolled and played here for a time before heading back out into the chop and back to our anchorage. As we cruised around I fetched a sea star from the bottom to give the swimmers a quick echinoderm lesson. Pentamerous Symmetry! There will be a quiz later, everyone! Even in the chaos of a choppy sea, this swim tour is spectacular.

Back aboard for a bouncy sail to Alonissos where the geology changes a bit. We came to rest in Kokkinokastro Bay, lined by red rocks and conglomerate cliffs - boulders large and small lodged into the clay to make for a textured backdrop. We lunched on salad and lentil yummy things with mint sauce and then one by one everyone drifted off for a nap that had been written into these cliff walls with every note played last night. At about 4pm everyone made their way to the stern for a splash.

The sun was low and dramatic. The wind had the sea surface whipped up. I took Dominique and Mandy to the inside of a little island, while Simon, Katharine and Allyson charged ahead to the far point. Unknowingly, Simon and I each gave our swimmers a little dissertation on submitting to the sea, giving over to the chop and swell, and how even in the chaos, the water wants to carry us. We each showed our swimmers that we can still explore the shore line in the swell. With consciousness and presence, you can get close to the drama without getting on the wrong end of it. This takes practice and faith. But I think these four swimmers are beginning to get that being close to the action is where the fun is. It’s where the real experience is.

We bombed around the bay and met some bold little damselfish who seemed to be defending their territory from our toes, and some urchins wearing hats. More about them later, for sure.

My favorite appy tonight - those incredible figs with goats cheese and tahini honey. I can’t even. Dinner was incredible and healthy to boot - delicate fish and lemon sauce, perfectly cooked broccoli and lovely towers of rice. Lemon posset closed the meal, and our guests played cribbage until dark.

For now, everyone is in bed and I’m not far behind. The shores of Alonissos are quiet tonight, thank Poseidon and Athena. We should have a good rest and another great day of adventuring tomorrow.

Kali Nikta,

Heather

Monday, Maybe a Nap?

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