Well. Remember how I said Monday was so amazing? At the risk of you not believing me, I have to say, Tuesday topped it. We woke up at the abandon village of Port Lyon.
Yes, we all somehow managed to sleep in. I guess it was time after 9 jetlagged souls had been faking it in this time zone. Lulu brought be my coffee on cue, Angel. We meandered through coffee and talking and finally jumped in along the ruins at the mouth of the little harbor. Funny I should say that, because if you’ve ever been with us in the BVI, I would say this swim was the extravagant Greek equivalent of Little Harbour on Peter Island. We saw incredible former reef formations in crystal clear water teaming with little fish. Then, just like in Little Harbour, we swam around the perimeter under a series of stern lines tied to shore. And just like in Little Harbour, all the other boaters looked at us as if swimming to see this place isn’t the absolute best idea ever. There were some goats so close I thought they might swim with us. Of course, Natalie climbed, which is very cool to watch unless you feel partially to fully responsible for her life. I do. She made it up and down safely. Phew.
Between the ruins and the fish and the rocks and the crystal clear waters, we all came back invigorated by nearly two miles of what we all deemed a top 10 swim.
We climbed aboard and Lulu made eggs to order. Super fresh, bright orange yolks. Delicious.
We sailed an hour to an island Simon had google mapped last year called Formikula island – we never made it then due to bad weather. We planned a 1.3 mile circumnavigation of the island before noon. Oh dear. Oh dear. Let me tell you.
Greece has a cave problem.
Every time we turned a corner (there were many on this little island), we found a new sea cave to explore. Swim-in caves, chimney caves with beams of light streaming down, swim under arches, swim through caves, caves caves large and small, this island was rotten with caves. It was so, stunningly beautiful. And the entire place sits in gin clear water and is bottomed by beds of luxurious sea grasses that make you want to nestle in for a nap. It was just exquisite. Again referring to the BVI, take the best of the Baths, the best of Norman Island and Pelican Island, the best of George Dog, the best of the Moon Pool, and put it altogether in one island. Then, swim around it. I promise you, you will have a swimming tantrum.
And so, today, there were tantrums.
Simon had a cave tantrum.
Kendra had a beauty tantrum.
I had a swim underwater through arches and keyholes tantrum.
It was just too much. Honestly, when we rounded the last corner and saw another cave, I heard the word “UNCLE” come out of my own mouth. I couldn’t take any more. But there was more.
As we approached the boat in formidable current – who cares, we were exhausted anyway from beautiful caves and tantrums, what’s a little more effort? – we heard Richie and Lulu yelling something and pointing just behind us.
What??? We couldn’t hear them.
Then they both flapped their arms and made seal barking noises.
Yes. There was a Mediterranean Monk Seal right behind us.
Amy caught sight of its massive head before it swam away like …. A really fast seal.
Honestly, I’m relieved it took off. I don’t think I could have handled the thrill of it.
We all collapsed back onto the yacht, delirious and giddy from TWO top 10 swims before lunch. And tantrums.
Lunch was absurd. Shrimps and fried cheese and fresh salads and stuffed tomatoes. We devoured it all. Afterward, I was helping clean up and I dumped a pile of dishes on the floor and one shattered. I had a dish tantrum. That’s kind of Greek, right? We laughed and cleaned it up. Really, nothing could detract from the morning of stunning swims.
A long sail to the northern most tip of Kefalonia and the utterly romantic town of Fiskardo. Google it. I dare you not to buy a plane ticket.
Richie did a masterful job of parking us in a tight spot between two other boats, stern to, and Simon dived in to tie the lines to shore while Lulu and I managed lines and fenders. Team effort and boom we were in.
We are just back from our evening and night in Fiskardo. With cocktails and incredible dinner (I could bust) and a singing street guy who knows only one song, and Amy bought Jeff a fantastic linen shirt and I bought a beautiful ring and Simon snatched my ice cream right from my hand and Heidi snuggled every single cat in the town. A lovely outing to cap off a humdinger of a day.
It’s late. I’m tantrummed out. Our crew and guests are talking and laughing softly in the dark cockpit over tea. They sound like old friends who’ve been hanging out for ages. Bonded. Connected.
A day like this will do that.
Thank the Greek Gods it’s time for bed, and that we will sail from here before swimming in the morning. I want to be well rested for whatever Wednesday might bring.