Tuesday and the bathing fisherman.

There’s a rhythm of sorts that we fall in out of here in the islands. Winds tend to be light in the morning, so we swim at the outer islands facing the open Adriatic, along the sheer cliffs above and below the water. A great way to start any day. Then we hop back on the yacht and sail or motor along the coast for a bit before ducking back into the island chain, finding a protected bay for the afternoon swim and the overnight anchor or mooring ball. 

Finn and I had an early challenge with the mooring ball this morning, as swirling winds spun the boat around in circles, creating a rats nest out of the mooring ball lines. Captain Ante kept the yacht still while we untangled it, and headed for the cliffs. Winds were swirling around 20 knots, but it was calm in the lee of the steep shoreline, and we glided over the impossible depths. 

We anchored for the afternoon in one of those calm bays, looping stern lines around big sturdy rocks on the island. Couscous salad, grilled vegetables and hummus for lunch. Our swim focused on finding an octopus, and we did, but it was exceedingly shy and crafty. We napped and read novels, some good, some bad.

Winds were projected to change direction yet again, so we moved to our third spot of the day at Kornat Island, grabbed a mooring ball in gusty winds, drank Aperol spritzes, then ate too much squid ink risotto, a classic Croatian dish.  

Last week we swam along Kornat Island, the one with the 5th century fort on its highest hill. I was determined to hike up there this week, and from where our yacht was positioned, this was the moment. We had about 2 hours of daylight to make the 2-mile round trip: Captain Ante, Chef Matea, guests Jeff and Yafa, guide Finn and I followed a trail starting the cutest little fishing village in the world, where we caught 2 fisherman bathing in the bay. 

The trail led through ancient olive groves, under a couple of very large spiders in their webs, past a very old church, then up a steep climb to the fort. The views up there were well worth it, and the whole experience was really special. We returned to the yacht with photos and stories of our adventure. (WARNING! Spider photo trigger warning!)

A few jumped in the Adriatic well after dark for a lap around the boat, legs and arms making bioluminescent trails in the night. Wrung out with fun, we hit the hay. 

Hopper