Turkiye Wrap

Peter took this stunner of our gulet from his morning hike on Koca Adasi. Thank you Peter!

The winds blew through Thursday night, then completely died Friday Morning. Glass. I had been eyeing Koca Island all week, and it was not far from our current anchorage. It turned out to be a real gem, with water clear to 60 feet, little schools of fish, cliff jumping opportunities, the almost ubiquitous to us now amphorae sherds and bigger pieces, and a hike up a small hill with fantastic views and, of course, more ruins. Perhaps a small Byzantine era church, maybe a small military station from who knows how far back. This whole region has been really important for thousands of years in terms of trade and as a military stronghold. Koca is littered with what looks to me like terra cotta roof tile, a LOT of it. It’s not easy to date a ruin using roof tiles alone, even for experts, but I think it does point to at least one really big structure here. In fact, the ruins of later structures we saw used the old roof tiles as shims within the mortar.  I get caught up in this stuff. 

Two more below from Peter!

Heather took advantage of the clear water to do some swimmer portraits with Monica and Peter and our two young Turkish crew, Karem and Sinan. They both did this last year, so even though they can’t understand Heather’s enthusiastic directions (thank you Seyfi for the translations!) they knew what to do.

We need to be back on the dock tonight, so our afternoon swim was just outside Bozborun. We anchored among other gulets, many of which held families that we’ve been waving to and swimming past all week with lots of “Merhaba” (hello) exchanged. Most of the people here in September are Turkish families from Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, and other large Turkish cities. Some are young people who listen to Turkish Pop music and sunbathe. Some are families celebrating birthdays and anniversaries. It’s a different vibe than, say, the Caribbean. It’s a tad more casual, understated, and sober. By 10pm all is quiet. 

Our last swim of the week started with a dinghy ride to Kiseli Island, which is basically one big ruin dating from 300BC all the way through the Ottoman era. I was in the middle of explaining to our group why we can see foundations underwater here, the result of some sea rise, but also the land lowering from earthquakes and other geological processes. Before I was done, someone spotted a rabbit, and everyone ran away to see it, leaving me in my speedo explaining the geology to a goat. 

We swam to a nearby peninsula that had, yes, more ruins. 3-story intact walls with carved limestone lintels, storage building (perhaps?) with an arched ceiling, and lots of underwater foundations and jetties.

Back on the gulet for cocktails (pick your favorite from the week), then a grand Turkish dinner, Chef Ali really did some great work tonight and all week. Another great photo show by Heather, this one had some great Turkish music. The whole crew came out for it, including Captain Seyfi’s parents and his youngest son Samet, who is bright and adorable. 

Thanks to guest Kathy for putting together this group. And to Peter, Monica, and Maria for trusting us with their time and for being game to swim or just give over to the Med.

Guide John flexed his stroke mechanic muscles with our new swimmers. Our Hawaiian little brother Kekau showed that he’s a waterman anywhere in the world. Heather’s photography pulled it all together.

This gulet crew is as professional as they come. Captain Seyfi, Host Phyllis, Deckhands Sinan and Karem, and Chef Ali. Teşekkür edirem and görüşürüz. 

Love,

Hopper