Wednesday windows and wonders.

An early start today as Jason yanked the hook for us at 0700 and we made for one of our favorite swims in these islands, with an (ELD) estimated live drop at 0800. Taylor wasn’t thrilled with the go time, but I impressed upon her that we have a full day ahead and this swim will be well worth getting out of bed for!

Jason held position for us at the northeast corner of Giorgios Island. We have done this swim several times, usually in borderline swimmable conditions of big waves, wind and more. Not today for this charmed group of Goddesses! Calm seas, no wind and bright blue skies made for picture perfect entry and swim. Water was a little cool at 76, but the sites more than made up for lost body heat.

It starts - you guessed it - with a cave. Then another cave, I think one more cave (they all begin to blur together) then The Room Pool. We swim under a broad arch that requires maybe a 5’ dive and surface in an open sky room large enough to hold the 6 of us comfortably. It’s so spectacular in there. Smooth rocks to sit or stand on, cliffs soaring up behind us, glowing turquoise water lighting the exit. We made lots of photos and oohs and ahhs and Kendra, Simon and I discussed living arrangements for when we officially move in. I love this place so much. How many people could possibly have been in here?? This is a remote uninhabited island that is hard to reach without a boat, and often has challenging weather to boot. I just can’t believe there have been too many more people than the swimmers we have brought in here over the last 6 years.

We exited The Room Pool and turned the corner for a beautiful white rock beach backed by a cliff face. We regathered here (having lost Simon and Kendra to yet another set of rooms) and made for what seems to be a small crack in the rock face on one side of the little beach bay. 

This looks, feels and IS a portal to another time and dimension. It’s a pyramid shaped tunnel grotto passage thing that starts tiny and expands to maybe 20 feet high. The water beneath just glows brilliant turquoise with light bouncing off of the white floor beneath. Like some sort of lit disco dance floor only we are the only dancers in this club. The whole tunnel is maybe 50 feet long. What a trip.

The tunnel lets out to the east side of the island and that’s where the swimmie swim begins - the part where we just put heads down and swim. But what a spectacular swim - along soaring cliffs maybe 1000, 2000 feet high? Just raw and untouched. The walls dotted with greenery and trees that grow from seemingly impossible places. On tiny little ledges with no soil, trees. Gnarly and twisted, canopied with multiple shades of green. Below the water’s surface, the cliffs continue down maybe 50 feet to a ledge. That ledge is striated and textured in the most geometric and stunning way. Greece’s version of the black line on the bottom of the pool. Only not that. Much, much better.

Around the corner we enter a huge bay, wild and wonderful. Sedimentary layers in white, gray, orange and pink. Beautiful white stones on the bottom, bouncing light everywhere. We explored a cave, swam through some rocks and meandered back to the boat, inventing the backstory for an incredible little tree growing on an inches wide outcrop in the middle of a flat and monstrous cliff face. How. How did the tree get there, how does it grow. We gave it a voice and decided it’s the tree version of the Little Engine that Could. 

I have no decent pic of this tree. I share the story with you only to illustrate the utter abandon, the total escape that this swim offers from our everyday worries and cares. It’s an experience during which the only and most essential things to discuss are the colors of the sea, the size of the stone rooms, the depths of the caves and the growth stories of impossible trees.

A showstopper swim for sure.

Lunch was also a showstopper, a table full of incredible leftovers that seemed to have only improved with age. 

With dinner ashore pending, Jemima was able to take a break so we promptly threw her in on our afternoon swim! She came and explored with us!

As our guests napped, Jason moved us to the island of Alonossos, for another showstopper water experience. This one at the end of just a very short swim from boat to shore. First, a small beach tucked deep within an opening in the cliffs. Next a slightly larger inlet with a rock ledge that holds a secret beneath it - a tunnel of fresh air. Kendra has been here before, but Miriam and Taylor could not believe we were asking them to swim under what seemed like a solid ledge at the water’s surface.

They trusted us and followed our instructions, dove down and rose up in another world, one with a water floor and a rock ceiling and everything just glows a greeny blue in the dark. Another night club perhaps, but no one knows about it but us. Oh yes, and there’s a sky light at one end. Open to the sky. And this skylight casts the most distinct and stunning ray of light into the grotto beneath. Call it God shine, call it disco ball, it mesmerized us. And the best part? We dragged Jemima in the water for all of this. Not only did our chef swim to the ledge, but she took a plunge of faith and we got her into the secret tunnel with us. Brave chef!

Anyway, the pics will do it more justice than I ever could. What fun, what an-other worldly delight.

We climbed back on board and sailed round the corner to the town dock at Patitiri. We threw our lines to the harbour master who had instructed us where to park. Once he left, a small D drama ensued with yelling fishermen, a police officer and a few other boaters. We got thrown under the bus a bit, and I spoke up and I think that shocked the big Greeks a bit. We moved over a few feet, but ultimately the fishermen gave up the ghost and peace was restored. I think. 

The gang headed up to a fantastic restaurant called The Castle at the top of the island, with incredible views and great food. And at least one cat. It wouldn’t be Greece without a cat or seven. Jason and I stayed behind to do a little boat work and blog work, but Simon, Celine and Miriam took over photo duty during dinner. Thanks guys!

What a showstopper day. Two banger swims, a little dock drama and a fantastic meal on top of the world. Thursday will have to work pretty hard to top today.

Kali Nikta,

Heather

Here’s a little video of some of our swim-through windows and grottos today, and once again, music by my very own, Finn Weafer. XO