Let’s talk temperature.

On so many of our trips - all to tropical places - it’s hot. In the last few years, many of these trips have been H O T Hot. We’ve seen seasonal temps rise in locations over the 17 years we’ve been at this. This summer in Maine was different. We did have two very hot weeks, but our little section of the Atlantic was colder than it’s been in years.

We always run two weeks in Greece in September, and usually I’m perfectly, delightfully comfortable in the water the first week, and then on Tuesday or Wednesday of the second week, Fall falls and I’m a little chilly - in the water and out. I pack a little neoprene for swims and long sleeves for evenings. Even though Greece is never HOT in September, I was looking forward to some warm swims from home in Maine.

I thought I might even catch two warm weeks this year since we are starting a week early. This morning, day 2, was chilly! Water temps ranging from 76-78, with the usual cold, fresh water vents leaking into the sea from the beautiful stone cliffs. These beautiful infusions confuse our senses with extra chilly feels and blurred vision due to the halocline - the interface of fresh and salt water which creates a wavy blur in the water column. So beautiful. The water is absolutely crystal clear even with these effects and we loved the bay so much we spent almost 90 minutes just cruising around, chill be damned. I will likely wear a little neoprene vest for at least our mornings, and I texted our guests for next week to advise them to bring some warmies for evening chats up on the helm deck, which is a lovely place to be and enjoy this place.

But I’m getting ahead of myself!

So the morning swim at Limnonari was stellar - more play, and surprisingly some lovely fish sightings! We had lots of little wrasses and chromis with their cute forked tails. The sandy bottom seemed covered with small flounder - difficult to photograph well, so I mostly just appreciated them. They blend in so it’s the kind of thing where you don’t see any, then you see one, then you see them all. Celine spotted a broadnose pipefish (Syngnathus typhle)!! Think of a large seahorse that is uncurled, with a stubby nose. He seemed not shy at all and let each of us get close for a looksee. Very cool. We finally got chilled enough that we called it quits and sprinted back across the bay for home.

*The broadnose pipefish (Syngnathus typhle)! Look at that cute tail!*

Jemima had fruit smoothies waiting which were lovely and delish as we warmed up in the sun. We motored just a short way to Amarantos Paralia where we lunched and snoozed before our afternoon swim.

Our afternoon swim was one of my favorites in these islands, with sheer cliffs of grays, whites and pinks, an opening in the wall that’s a tight cove with a cave at each end, and the most glorious - cravasse? Fjord? Canyon? Grotto? An eden. I don’t even know really what to call it, but it’s deep and stunning and special and I just love to swim people into it. Taylor, Miriam, Celine and Kendra brought the awe, the openness, the play. This is why I do what I do. Jason joined us and brought his wacky 360 camera thingy. I haven't seen those pics yet but I’m sure they are wild.

Dinner was just right - a shrimp saganaki in a spicy tomato broth with Greek fresh feta and a side salad of some kind of special green and olives and capers. The Mediterranean in my mouth. More, please. We moved upstairs into the air for sunset, and Jemima appeared with a dessert of kiwi watermelon suurpreeeeeeez. Worth the extra eees. The color of the treat matched the color of the sunset, I kid you not.

In the dim, a shot of ouzo, the spirit of Greece.

The Spirit of Greece.

This afternoon, just past the fjord, Simon found an underwater cave. When you look down from the surface, it looks like a giant, dark hole. Just a maw of uncertainty. But when you are very brave and dive to the bottom and look into its depths, you see a hope in the form of beams of light. A sign from the surface. A way through. I borrowed Jason’s mask and made a few test dives. I thought of my brother friend Richie Rome who taught me to free dive and channeled calm. One breath. I went into the dark and followed that light through a long, challenging tunnel and rose again to the shining blue sky.

I’m off to be a magical water fairy of the night with Kendra, then to my cozy bed with cool skin and spirit talks and swims fresh on my mind.

Kali Nikta,

Heather

Monday elements.

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