Monday: A great case of the Mondays

I need to take a moment here to recognize our dear friends Richie and Lisa, who are unable to join us on this trip. They were instrumental in establishing SwimVacation, having worked the very first trip we did back in 2008. Since then, they’ve worked with us on dozens of trips, and will always be a part of what SwimVacation is. Richie and Lisa, we love you. 

Islands. What is it about them that creates so much fascination? SwimVacation was built around islands. First, the British Virgin Islands, then the Big Island of Hawaii, then to hundreds of islands around the world. This morning we woke up anchored off of Kameni Žakan Island, and after looking at its circumference and the weather, decided to swim around it. 

We’re in the Kornati Islands National Park in Croatia. It was created in 1980, 11 years before Croatia gained formal independence. There are rules here about the number of boats allowed to be moored or anchored in a particular place, there are fishing limits, a ban on open fires, and zero-entry protection zones. The result is a region of staggering beauty. 

As we swam around this little island, the winds kept getting lighter, and the water turned glassy. Schools of fish spied us from a safe distance. Elegant algaes carpeted the bottom. Gaffney spotted the tail of some type of missile, probably a cold-war era relic. As we rounded the exposed side of the island, things got a little sporty, but no bigs for this group. Our nearly 2-mile adventure ended with a warm shower and some time in the sun at the bow of our sailing yacht. 

We sailed north, into the heart of this massive island park. Islands with majestic cliffs, extending hundreds of feet high and underwater. Islands covered in rock walls, extending end to end. Ruins, goats, sparse green vegetation in spots, like on a Dalmatian dog. 

Lunch was a lovely Mediterranean spread. None left, don’t ask.

We pulled into a little harbor around the back of Otok (island) Veli Rešip Island, calm blue water greeting us. Due to the topography here, we need to tie the stern to sturdy ledge on the island, and Gaffney and I shared the task. 

I’ve been incorporating more hikes into SwimVacation swims, like swim-hike-swim kind of things. We put water shoes in our dry bags, along with water or sunglasses, and I bring a phone wrapped in a baggie. Today we hiked up a steep hill and were rewarded with an amazing view of the bay. On the swim back we spotted an octopus, and got inked by it, the second time in 2 days I’ve swum through octopus ink.

Heather and Kendra, neither of them hikers, enjoyed a long swim n chat. They had zero regrets but enjoyed our accounts of the hike.

Guest Jane picks up trash. You have probably met this kind of angel. If you’ve ever walked down a trail and noticed it was covered in trash, Jane has not been there. Trash, especially the plastic kind, winds up on every beach in the whole world, and this otherwise pristine park is not immune to it. Anyway, Jane filled a trash bag with detritus, and our view from the stern immediately improved. Angel, indeed. 

Back on yacht Forever Young, Matea put out a big tray of locally procured snacks, and I made Negronis and Adriatic Watermelon Coolers (1 oz of local liqueur Travarica,  3 oz fresh watermelon juice ½ oz lime juice over ice) 

Spinach and ricotta ravioli with lemon zest and crumbled pistachios. Carrot cake. Local rosé wine. Uncle. 

Our crew this week, skipper Ante and chef Matea, are turning out to be consummate professionals. They’re also intimate with these islands and the people that inhabit them, which is a huge help.

We have a good thing going here. Hydration and rest will keep the momentum going tomorrow. Goodnight, Island!

Hopper