There's something about waking up on a boat in a beautiful place that is indescribable. Yesterday’s laughter fills the mind, and visions of the swims ahead worm their way into most, before coffee even hits their lips. It was the same this morning in our small bay behind Veli Rešip, and while we snacked on overnight chia seed pudding, and enjoyed light local honey, more beauty walked into our frame of view. The herd of goats from the previous night decided to move back across the island, and we shared a laugh over the bleeting that ensued.

It was time to cast off, and in order to do so, I was tasked with plunging into the 8AM water. Not a typically good task, but I'm told it’s a great one for a 3rd guide! After my salty, holistic coffee, we set a short sail around the corner, where we had planned for a live drop, and a swim along this series of massive cliffs formed hundreds of years ago. Ante masterfully slowed the boat down, and one by one guests and guides alike jumped into the deep cool blue. I took the liberty of swimming to the craggy shore, and beginning our cliffside swim with a big jump off the sharp peak. My wetsuit shot me back to the surface, and we were off!

I spent most of the time in the lead, to check out cracks and caves, however this wasn’t one of those swims with an obvious front and back. Mostly, we swam in a clump, on our backs, like a troupe of sea otters, staring up at the 100 foot overhangs that dangled over our heads. Below us, more the same, with cliffs reaching far into an impenetrable navy depth. There could be hundreds of cold war missiles below us, and we would’ve been none the wiser. The dramatic landscape made the present ocean life all the more impressive. Fish darted amongst themselves above rocky shelves, and didn’t seem to mind our interruption, as we splashed along the outcroppings. The fish sure didn’t seem to notice the backdrop, but we sure did! Guest Kevin made an astute observation, in the cracks above us, there were plants clinging to the walls. Despite the windy, salty battering, life prevailed. I couldn’t help but think of Jurassic Park “life finds a way.” It goes to show the complicated patterns of life here in the Mediterranean.

After this “top 10” SwimVacation swim (per Heather), Ante again showed his tact as a skipper, by picking up the ecstatic group without dropping anchor. Some wanted to continue along the island edge (myself included), but the words of a former guest came to mind… might it just be more rocks?

We maneuvered further along the coast to our next spot, a beautiful little bay where we would set up for lunch. I napped up top (much like my father, an auditory experience for guests), and waited for lunch. Angel Jane and observant Kevin went on a hike and Kathy (of course) went for a short swim, but most considered this time to be a rest from our exciting morning. What has struck me about SwimVacation thus far is the level of rest. Yes, we have wild adventures, but plenty of time is spent enjoying a book in a beautiful place.

Thank you Ante for grabbing my phone and getting some footage of us during our swim! - HP

Soon lunch was prepared for us, and as archaeology is to my father, food is to me, and Matea once again delivered. A fresh beet and greens salad, with crumbled cheese and balsamic seemed to be the star of the show, but this was closely followed with a sort of grilling cheese, and a pasta tuna toss. I wouldn’t have considered the pasta toss to be so good in concept, but it turned out to be a flavourful highlight.

After we had filled ourselves and kept the smiles on our face, it was time to continue to the next spot. We passed ancient ruins, and striking hills until arriving at our next location. Guest Kathy (of course) got in the water as soon as we had tied the mooring while the rest of us got our items together for the next adventure.

While we are running a water-focused vacation, we’ve sprinkled in some hikes. I know for me, it was a nice break from the salt. We walked along the unique landscape. Matea joined us for this jaunt, and provided all sorts of information about the local plants and the features we hiked to. This brings me back to the complicated history of Mediterranean natural terrain. This area experienced a fire about 20 years ago, without native oak trees and other water storing plants, the tall grass ignites under any hint of a spark. During one battle against these fires, 12 brave firefighters lost their lives on this island. In their honor, a local architect and artist erected 12 massive handbuilt crosses to mark their sacrifice. We silently thanked them for their service in protecting the beautiful place that now surrounded us.

Yes, I hiked. And if you know me, you know what a thing this is. - HP

Ante piloted the dingy out to the trailhead to pick us up, or rather, our clothes. Now that we had been in the sun for an hour, it would’ve taken a few missiles to stop us from plunging into the light blue water. We swam our way back to the boat, but of course as these things go, we spent a little more time swimming to a nearby point. If you give a mouse a cookie…

We ended this little swim with some stroke video taken by Heather. This week we will spend some of our time dissecting these and hopefully gain a little more insight into how we can better experience these locations. Ocean swimming is very different from a pool, and so I requested a video as well. I haven’t ever swam this much in the ocean, but the guests are showing me the way, with anti-chafe balm and wetsuit choices.

We of course ended the evening with cocktails, appetizers, dinner, then dessert. How Matea does it, I will never know, but it does seem like Ante is a talented sous chef. For cocktails, my dad whipped up a few Aperol spritzers, and these were sipped along with tuna, shrimp, and cod pate with some olive oily crackers. It was to dine for. Dinner was a classic Sibenik dish, squid ink risotto, which has a jarring black coloration. At first nibble, it turns to an explosion of cheesy and fishy flavor. Our well fed guests were impressed to say the least, and this was all before dessert! Turkish inspired balaclava and a special “Mongolian Lady” were on the menu, and soon in our stomachs.

Croatia is a young country, and it’s hard to mentally construct its national identity, but it seems like it's really trying to step into its own. The mixing of different cultures and foods strangely reminds me of the history of America, and it’s from a similar melting pot that Croatia's own flavor springs from. For now, I’m enjoying being both immersed in the culture and the natural beauty of this wonderful country, peeking under the veil of novelty to what lies beneath. Likely my feelings will only strengthen as we head into a well fed Wednesday.

Gaffney

Tuesday: Peeking under the veil

Connect