Wednesday: Octopus’ Garden.

Let’s catch up on where we are: Kornati National Park, an island chain off the coast of Croatia. We come to places like this for the water, but the landscape here is something to behold. At first it seems desolate and untouched, and certainly dramatic, but it’s actually a landscape that has been heavily influenced by humans for thousands of years. At one time, these islands would have been covered in stands of oak and juniper, and perhaps even had running streams. Today we see steep hills covered in grasses in a buff/green color, the occasional tree or shrub, and endless stone walls, from the sea to the horizon. I’m not saying this is a damaged landscape, but one that has been shaped and altered by humans. Prehistoric people, Romans, Byzantines, and Venetians all cut firewood and built boats from the forested hills. Slavs and Dalmatian locals grazed sheep and goats here for hundreds of years, and still do. There are some places where people have placed fences to keep the sheep and goats out, which has allowed trees to grow, and it gives us a glimpse of what this landscape may have looked like long ago.

During our morning swim, we saw three sea planes used to scoop water to fight fires practicing maneuvers.

Our morning swim was a stunner. Kornat Island, for which this island chain was named, already looks like a castle, with layers of rock stacked on one another. But atop this castle-looking island is an actual castle, built in the 5th century A.D. Like much of the rest of the former Roman Empire, this area was in flux during this period. The Byzantines were trying to keep or re-gain control of the former Roman trade routes, and Dalmatia topped their list. Pirates and local populations posed a problem, thus the castle. We swam along the base of the island, current at our backs, crystal clear water, bright sunshine, lots of sea life. Honestly one of the most enjoyable swims I have ever swum.

Wildlife spotting was spectacular on this swim, with an eel, a bright red sea anemone, and a swimming nudibranch called a Red Brown Leathery Doris which was a real highlight!

Jane made us all laugh with her finishing school posture exercise with found ceramic plate on her head, then played hostess and served Kendra and Dana watermelon in the water!

Captain Ante had been following us with our yacht, taking photos with Heather’s camera while we swam, and scooted into a little harbor just before we finished. Matea put lunch out: chicken and vegetable skewers, potatoes, Croatian Tadziki, marinated tomatoes. Naps ensued.

We anchored for the night near a small island and, of course, we swam around it. Kathy swam around it twice. We found a large hole that seemed to go to the center of the earth. A few of us stuck our heads in but wisely decided not to explore further.

We spied an octopus near the yacht, named her Betty, and gathered some shells to offer her to help decorate her already fancy garden as she watched with curiosity.

Dinner was a full cauliflower steak on a bed of hummus, extremely tasty. We talked about SwimVacation trips from the past, and batted around ideas about future trips. So many of our guests genuinely root for us and support us in many ways. Grateful, the crew heads to bed around midnight after gabbing for way too long.

Hopper

Sunset was soft and beautiful. Of course Kathy jumped in for one more splash.